Village Kitchen improves with changes

The Village Kitchen is as quaint and charming an eatery as the village of Mariemont from which it draws its name. The last few years have seen a few changes for the Mariemont tradition, which boasts 44 years of continuous service. But a recent visit reassured me that the changes have only served to improve the eatery, without compromising its concept.

A need for more space prompted the restaurant’s 2004 move from a cozy spot on Mariemont Square to its new location in the Walton Creek Center on Wooster Pike, just east of Kroger. The new spot boasts 40 more seats and when an intern and I stopped by for lunch recently, the place was full.

It’s the restaurant’s simple, home-style meals that have attracted crowds since 1964. Everyday lunch and dinner specials such as roast pork loin, baked ham, prime rib and pork chops draw a senior-citizen crowd early and younger couples and families later. Lighter fare includes entrée salads like the Martha’s Vineyard and the Peasant salad, along with sandwiches, wraps and soups.

In November, the establishment brought on seasoned culinary professional Chef Jerry Stern to head operations. Stern received classical training from the Culinary Institute of America before going on to serve as sous chef at various fine dining establishments.

Stern’s more than 20 years experience in menu development, catering and operations certainly shows in the Village Kitchen’s extensive menu. The traditional favorites are all there, as well as some tempting new additions, including six grilled panini sandwiches served on yummy focaccia breads. Bonus: two of the sandwiches are vegetarian.

The sandwiches are all named after Cincinnati neighborhoods and it was a hard pick between the Mount Lookout and Mount Adams sandwiches. We both ordered the Mount Adams panini ($6.95), which layers mushrooms, sautéed spinach, red onions, black olives and tomato with parmesan cheese.

The Mount Lookout sandwich (also $6.95) features sautéed spinach, red onions and tomato made gooey and delicious by layers of melted chedder and swiss cheeses. All sandwiches come with a side of crisp coleslaw.

Word of caution: Be sure to come hungry. The sandwiches are massive and neither of us were able to finish ours. I would like to go back with my husband for dinner sometime and maybe even sample some of the restaurant’s well-recommended desserts.

If you go:

Village Kitchen

7453 Wooster Pike
513-272-0178
Monday - Saturday 7 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.