stacky, not tacky

Annette deCavel sent me a tear sheet from Tatler magazine, the British society gossip magazine, that mentions Jean-Robert at Pigall's, the downtown restaurant she and her husband Jean-Robert own. Jeremy Wayne's brief says "Jean-Robert at Pigall's makes you forget the French Laundrys and the Charlie Trotters--they're so gastro-Disney. . . . Gracious, you eat well. . . .Occasionally stacky-stacky, but never tacky-tacky." I love that--so Englishly cute. Now that I've mentioned it here I guess I won't be able to steal it as a description in any review I ever write. (not that I could get away with it. . . )
It's really kind of accurate, though. I've always liked the way Jean-Robert layers his dishes, so you have to discover the various elements as you go. But he's not one of those tower-builders who stacks everything high and crowns it with a vertical sprig of rosemary like some kind of crazy lady's hat from the 40's.