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Ruminations on food, cooking in and eating out in our area.


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Nicci King is an unabashed foodie and the Lifestyle/Food editor in The Enquirer's features department. She loves to discover new food faves, and she's on a daily quest to answer one burning question: What's for dinner? E-mail her at nking@enquirer.com.


Enquirer Weekend editor Julie Gaw tends to order the same dish every time she eats at a restaurant, but periodically ventures out to discover something new and fabulous. After living in China, Hong Kong, the Philippines and Thailand for more than 8 years, she craves tasty Asian food. E-mail her at jgaw@enquirer.com.


Food/dining writer Polly Campbell loves every quirk and secret of Cincinnati's food personality, and is on a constant lookout for something good to eat. Keep an eye out for her restaurant picks, or see how she's progressing toward becoming famous for her apple pie. E-mail her at pcampbell@enquirer.com.


Communities reporter Rachel Richardson is on a mission to prove vegetarians eat more than lettuce. She shares both her graduate work on American food culture and food-related news.. E-mail her at rrichardson@enquirer.com.

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Thursday, January 10, 2008

Good Baked Goods

I'm pretty much OD'd on cookies, fudge, strudel, stollen, schnecken, toffee, peppermint ice cream, fruitcake. . . . .. and all the other holiday treats I've sent happily down the hatch in the last month or so.

Still. . . . when I hear of someone opening a new bakery, I feel I should check it out. Especially when described as homemade European pastries. On the west side.

Taber Bakery is adream project of a young couple, Jeff and Jenny Taber. They're clearly starting on a shoestring, with a simply decorated storefront at North Bend and Harrison (next to the gun store). You might not give it a second look if you drove by. Jeff's the baker, and he makes real Danish pastry, in the form of breakfast Danishes, bear claws, and his own version of schnecken. It's buttery and rich. The schnecken is like "Cincinnati" schnecken, in that it's three cinnamon rolls baked in a loaf, but it's not the butter-soaked bread-like style of the Virginia Bakery. It's much more layered, with lots and lots of crunchy sugar between the layers.

And--are you from Buffalo? On Tuesdays, they have kummelweck, the coarse salt and caraway-sprinkled rolls necessary for beef on weck. I don't know what's authentic here, but I ran it past a Buffaloan I know, and he said they were right. . . . Delicious homemade rolls, in any case.
3408 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, 513-661-BAKE.


6 Comments:

at 2:14 PM Blogger Mary said...

Good for them. I hope that they do well. I just can't see myself schlepping to the Westside for baked goods when I have Frieda's in Madeira, but hopefully they will have enough of a clientelle on that side of town. Like Marge Schott used to say after she spent 30+ years reviewing car loan applications, "The Westside has the money, the Eastside has the bills."

 
at 12:14 AM Blogger Ryan Detzel said...

Holy Fresh Baked Schnecken Batman! That's right down the street from my house.

I'll have to check it out...you know, for the purpose of research. Someone's gotta do it.

 
at 3:49 PM Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Polly -- Totally off topic question, but will you review Rue Dumaine in Dayton? I know it's technically outside of the Enquirer's normal area, but Chuck Martin did profile the chef and Anne Kearney probably has enough of a name that she could draw plenty of people from Cincy.

 
at 12:39 PM Anonymous Anonymous said...

I have been to the Taber Bakery. Their Schnecken and Bienenstich (Bee Sting pastry) are out of this world, as well as their Thursday special, Multi-grain Sourdough bread. The owners are a delightful young couple, and as you say, building their dream.
Ruth

 
at 10:15 AM Anonymous Anonymous said...

My husband just brought home a loaf of the multigrain sourdough...heavenly!

 
at 4:51 AM Anonymous Anonymous said...

I just love this little bakery. I go at least twice a week. They are so friendly. It helps to get there early in the morning between 9-11 a.m. It seems everyone else loves them too, because they can sell out of their baked good rather early. The fresh bread is awesome! and oh yeah, these special cookies with almond are just delightful... Thanks Taber Bakery....We Cheviot people love ya.

 
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