I've always thought the block of 4th St west of Plum was underutilized. It's an almost-intact stretch of wonderful old buildings, and until a few years ago was busy with art galleries, but is now quiet, but it holds such possibility. Bang nightclub recently moved in, and now there's going to be a restaurant next door to it.
Boss Cox will open at 312 W. 4th St, in an 1873-era building in June. Daniel Wright, who is to be the chef, says it will be a gastro-pub that serves American food to go with beer. It will have visual and culinary references to Cincinnati’s Pre-Prohibition past, but will feel and taste modern. It’s named for the notorious machine politician of the early 20th century. A 8 x 30 foot blackboard will list the menu, the list of 14 or so beers on tap, and the drink menu , so there will be no need for paper menus.
The exhibition kitchen will feature a wood-burning grill, with a rotisserie. It will turn out high-end food that’s moderately priced, with entrees mostly under $21. Some dishes Wright is planning include fresh oysters, goat cheese gnocchi with semolina carrots and brown butter, beer-braised mussels, marinated skirt steak salad with arugula nad shaved manchego, a charcuterie platter with house-made pickles, Guinness-braised veal cheeks, bacon-wrapped trout with leeks and salsify, rotisserie chicken with sweet corn souffle, a braised pork belly sandwich, a goetta sandwich and Boss Cox burger.
Wright, who moved here from Chicago and has worked at restaurants such as Blackbird and Campanile, was most recently executive chef at Souk in Chicago. His parntners are Lance Frye, recently of Boca, and Joe Creighton.
Boss Cox will be open for lunch and dinner, and until late on the weekends.